In an often overly style-conscious dining world, comfort is a commodity too readily overlooked. Praise be, therefore, for the atmosphere at Café Grande, which is one to put even the most agitated of diners at ease.

Bruntsfield may not be gay Paris but deep red walls with bright little abstract paintings and dark wood fixtures give Café Grande and instant continental ambience. Further evidence of this is that the locals seem just as comfortable dropping in for a glass of wine, coffee and passion cake or a bowl of nachos as they are for a full three courser.

The tables are small and it doesn't take much to make them cluttered, though when the food arrives any minor irritations are easily distracted. A brief but considered menu, Café Grande goes for the classic combinations - lamb and rosemary, chicken and mozerella, liver and bacon - and they serve up healthy portions with an eye for detail and no little flair. That extra care and attention pays off; the rump of lamb is succulently roasted with rosemary, and with an accompaniment of puy lentils and a mint and cucumber relish, is hearty without being stodgy.

The selection may be considered standard bistro fare, such as sausage and mash or salmon fillets, but there is plenty here to warrent a visit.